Skin Library

The acid mantle of facial skin is a protective layer made up of sebum and sweat. It protects the skin from elements and inhibits growth of bacteria and fungi. The pH of the acid mantle ranges from 4 to 5.5 on the pH scale.

Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that is estimated to affect over 85% of adolescents and young adults. Excess production of oil from the sebaceous glands results in hair follicles becoming plugged and is characterized by papules, pustules, and comedones.

Allantoin is found in the comfrey plant and has beneficial moisturizing properties making it useful for dry skin, healing wounds, and skin irritations.

Alpha hydroxy acids(AHAs) are derived from fruit and milk sugars that are mainly exfoliant in nature and have a special ability to penetrate skin. The major types found in skin care products include glycolic acid (sugar cane), lactic acid (milk), citric acid (oranges and lemons), tartaric acid (grapes), and malic acid (apples and pears). AHAs work by causing epidermal cells to slough off thereby making room for regrowth of new skin. They are also thought to stimulate production of collagen and elastin. AHAs may cause sun sensitivity therefore it is important to use sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection after application.

Antioxidants, also referred to as “free radical scavengers”are substances that can prevent or slow oxidative damage. Free radicals are unstable, aggressive oxygen containing molecules that have lost an electron and need to take one from another molecule to gain stability. Free radicals interrupt normal cellular metabolism and damage cell membranes. Antioxidants are capable of stabilizing free radicals before they can react and cause harm. Effective antioxidants include beta-carotene, lutein, lycopene, and vitamins A, C, and E.

Astringents are substances that cause contraction of tissues and are effective in controlling bleeding and alleviating secretions. Examples are witch hazel used to reduce swelling, styptic pencils, and calamine used to relieve itching and chafing.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring substance found in wheat, rye, and barley that is used in skin care products to treat mild acne and rosacea. It can also be used to lighten skin.

The basal layer is the inner layer of the epidermis that contains basal cells. Basal cells continually divide to form new keratinocytes thereby replacing the old ones shed from the skin's surface.

Benzoyl peroxide is an antibacterial medication that is used to combat bacteria that aggravate acne.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are commonly referred to in the cosmetics industry as salicylic acid which is derived from aspirin thus lending anti-inflammatory properties. BHAs are oil-soluble giving the ability to penetrate deep into pores which contain sebum and exfoliate dead skin cells built up inside the pore. BHAs function by causing cells of the epidermis to become “unglued” allowing dead skin cells to shed making room for regrowth of new skin.

Chemical peels generally include the use of AHAs and are used to improve the appearance of skin. A chemical solution is applied to skin causing dead skin to slough off and eventually peel.

Cold pressed oils are oils extracted from vegetables using a low-heat technique. This technique helps maintain flavor, nutritional value, and color.

Collagen is a fibrous protein that connects and supports bodily tissues including skin, bone, tendons, muscles, and cartilage. Collagen works with keratin to provide skin w/ strength, flexibility, and resilience. Degradation of collagen with age leads to wrinkles. UV exposure also causes deterioration of collagen, therefore sun block is crucial in retaining healthy collagen.

Comedogenic refers to products or substances that induce or contribute to the formation of comedones.

Comedones are blackheads or whiteheads. Blackheads are open comedones and are follicles filled with plugs of sebum and sloughed off cells that have undergone a chemical reaction resulting in oxidation of melanin which gives the typical black color. Whiteheads are closed comedones and are follicles filled with the same material as blackheads but only have a microscopic opening to the skin surface. As a result, air can't reach the follicle and oxidation doesn't occur thus remains white in color.

Contact dermatitis is a skin reaction that results from exposure to allergens or irritants resulting in inflammation of skin.

Cortisol commonly referred to as the “stress hormone” is a corticosteroid hormone produced by the adrenal cortex that is involved in response to stress and anxiety. Excess production can cause inflammation and irritation to the skin.

Couperose skin is characterized by redness of skin due to poor elasticity of the capillary walls. When blushing occurs in normal skin, the capillary walls expand receiving increased blood flow and then contracts and returns to its normal appearance. In couperose skin, the capillary walls are not strong enough to contract thus leaving a red appearance.

Skin cysts are closed pockets of tissue that can be filled with fluid, pus, or other material. Development may occur as a result of infection or clogged sebaceous glands.

Dermis is the middle layer of the skin held together by collagen and made up of blood vessels, lymph vessels, hair follicles, and sweat glands.

Elastin is protein in skin and tissue that helps keep skin flexible yet tight. It functions with collagen in connective tissue and tends to deplete with age resulting in wrinkles or stretched skin.

The epidermis is the thin outer layer of skin that protects deeper layers of skin and organs of the body from the environment.

Essential fatty acids must be obtained from diet as they can't be made in the body. They play an important role in stimulation of skin and hair growth and are required for the normal structure of all cell membranes. They are grouped as omega-3 including linolenic acid or omega-6 which includes linoleic acid. Food sources include fish, safflower oil, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts.

Exfoliate is a term used to describe the removal of dead skin cells to reveal newer, vibrant skin. Mechanical exfoliation may include sugar, salt, or loofahs that knock dead cells off the surface of skin. Chemical exfoliation can include AHAs or salicylic acid that work by loosening the bonds between cells in the stratum corneum. Exfoliation unclogs pores and aids in keeping skin clean.

Fatty acids are typically found in plant and animal fats and are believed to strengthen skin cells and are a booster for moisture content. They also aid in maintenance health of cell membranes are are believed to have anti-inflammatory properties. Plant-based oils including evening primrose and borage as well as spirulina are rich in fatty acids.

Keratin is a protein formed from dead cells and protects the skin from harmful substances.

Keratinocytes are squamous cells found in the epidermis that make keratin and help provide the skin with necessities to protect the body.

Linoleic acid is an omega-6 essential fatty acid that is found in lipids of cell membranes and are abundant in many vegetable oils including sunflower oil and safflower oil. In cosmetics, linoleic acid is used for emollient properties, antioxidants, and are believed to be effective in skin barrier repair.

Melanocytes are cells found in the epidermis that produce skin pigment.

Natural moisturizing factors are a collection of compounds that include amino acids, cholesterol, fatty acids, triglycerides, and phospholipids that absorb water from the atmosphere and combine it with their own water content allowing the outermost layers of the stratum corneum to stay hydrated despite element exposure.

Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid found naturally in plant sources and animal products. Olive oil has a high content of oleic acid and is used in cosmetics and soap making for moisturizing properties.

Palmitoleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid that is a highly effective antioxidant and may be involved in cell rejuvenation and healing processes. It is also believed to be effective in reducing dermatitis and eczema. Botanical sources with high concentrations include macadamia oil and sea buckthorn oil.

Papules or red pimples are small, solid bumps resulting from blockages of oil glands and may open when scratched becoming crusty and infected.

Photoaging is damage done to skin over one's lifetime from prolonged exposure to UV radiation. Long-term effects include dark spots, wrinkles, broken blood vessels, skin cancers, and leathery skin.

Polyphenols are a group of plant-derived substances that have been shown to be strong antioxidants. Flavonoids and tannins are types of polyphenols.

Pustules are pimples with a collection of white pus at their top.

Sebaceous glands produce sebum and are found on most parts of the body.

Sebum is an oily substance secreted by sebaceous glands and functions in making skin and hair waterproof and reduces water loss from the skin surface.